Everest base camp in numbers

I wore a Garmin Vivofit device to track my steps and distance over the 11 days of my Everest Base Camp trek, which was handy because it's waterproof and doesn't need charging. Unfortunately, it doesn't log floors climbed or elevation. These stats represent all movement for the day, which included any down time in villages... Continue Reading →

Freezing my arse off in Lobuche

1 November 2017 It’s fucking cold. We’re in Lobuche at 4,940m. I have no appetite, I’m tired all the time but sleeping is difficult. I was supposed to go on an acclimatisation hike this afternoon after we arrived but I piked. Chuda was trying to psych me up to do it, it was only an... Continue Reading →

Looking down on Dingboche: reflections on dating and divorce

31 October 2017 Today was a rest and acclimatisation day in Dingboche. We woke late and breakfasted before lightly loading our daypacks for a short hike. The path we would take began behind our teahouse and we met many other groups heading up the same path. The barren landscapes above 4,000m mean it’s easy to... Continue Reading →

Finding a place to pee at 4,000m

30 October 2017 Today was supposed to be a relatively easy day. Heading out of Duboche, everything was covered in snow. Everywhere I turned was a stunning scene of white, yaks plodding past, both with and without burdens. The forest looked enchanted, like any minute a unicorn would come trotting out, dip its horn at... Continue Reading →

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