Homesick in Pangboche

3 November 2017 It felt like I only slept a few hours last night before the effort to breathe woke me. Sleep at this altitude is elusive not to mention cold. The intake of air burns my throat and my nose blocked up days ago. Everyone seems to have a cough, a sore throat, a... Continue Reading →

Finding my Everest

2 November 2017 Today was the day. A long hard trek to Gorak Shep and then onto EBC after lunch. It promised to be cold and hard. A light snow had fallen overnight in Lobuche at 4,940m. It was an early start at 6.30am for breakfast. I was a bundle of anticipation and apprehension, scared... Continue Reading →

Freezing my arse off in Lobuche

1 November 2017 It’s fucking cold. We’re in Lobuche at 4,940m. I have no appetite, I’m tired all the time but sleeping is difficult. I was supposed to go on an acclimatisation hike this afternoon after we arrived but I piked. Chuda was trying to psych me up to do it, it was only an... Continue Reading →

Looking down on Dingboche: reflections on dating and divorce

31 October 2017 Today was a rest and acclimatisation day in Dingboche. We woke late and breakfasted before lightly loading our daypacks for a short hike. The path we would take began behind our teahouse and we met many other groups heading up the same path. The barren landscapes above 4,000m mean it’s easy to... Continue Reading →

Finding a place to pee at 4,000m

30 October 2017 Today was supposed to be a relatively easy day. Heading out of Duboche, everything was covered in snow. Everywhere I turned was a stunning scene of white, yaks plodding past, both with and without burdens. The forest looked enchanted, like any minute a unicorn would come trotting out, dip its horn at... Continue Reading →

Mt Everest, the best anniversary gift

29 October 2017 Today would have been my sixth wedding anniversary but, instead, I saw Mt Everest. We headed out of Namche bright and early to a stunning clear sky. The climb through the terraces was trying on my cold legs but once we reached the track proper I was able to fall into a... Continue Reading →

A mountain hidden in clouds

28 October 2017 I was excited waking up this morning, thinking I would finally have my first glimpse of Everest, but my expectations were exceeded the moment I stepped out of the front door of the teahouse. It was early, the sun still behind the mountains that embrace Namche Bazaar. But the skies were clear,... Continue Reading →

Finding a bakery in Namche Bazaar

27 October 2017 Today began well before my 6.30am alarm. The walls of the teahouse were thin and people in nearby rooms were stirring from 5.30am. The morning pilgrimage to the bathroom and back at the end of the hall, the opening and closing of wooden doors that always seem to stick. I’d slept well... Continue Reading →

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