Finding a place to pee at 4,000m

30 October 2017 Today was supposed to be a relatively easy day. Heading out of Duboche, everything was covered in snow. Everywhere I turned was a stunning scene of white, yaks plodding past, both with and without burdens. The forest looked enchanted, like any minute a unicorn would come trotting out, dip its horn at... Continue Reading →

Mt Everest, the best anniversary gift

29 October 2017 Today would have been my sixth wedding anniversary but, instead, I saw Mt Everest. We headed out of Namche bright and early to a stunning clear sky. The climb through the terraces was trying on my cold legs but once we reached the track proper I was able to fall into a... Continue Reading →

A mountain hidden in clouds

28 October 2017 I was excited waking up this morning, thinking I would finally have my first glimpse of Everest, but my expectations were exceeded the moment I stepped out of the front door of the teahouse. It was early, the sun still behind the mountains that embrace Namche Bazaar. But the skies were clear,... Continue Reading →

Finding a bakery in Namche Bazaar

27 October 2017 Today began well before my 6.30am alarm. The walls of the teahouse were thin and people in nearby rooms were stirring from 5.30am. The morning pilgrimage to the bathroom and back at the end of the hall, the opening and closing of wooden doors that always seem to stick. I’d slept well... Continue Reading →

Those three little words

There’s something magical about someone saying they love you for the first time. Your mouth widens involuntarily into a stupid grin, your heart beats faster and you giggle like a schoolgirl at a slumber party. At least that was the case when J said it to me yesterday. It took me by surprise given we... Continue Reading →

Welcome to Phakding

26 October 2017 – Afternoon I was on my way to Everest Base Camp (EBC) but I was walking downhill. What the? Yep, the entire first day of walking is a gradual descent from 2,860m to 2,625m which makes for a very easy day of walking but a terrible day for the mind. When you... Continue Reading →

Flying into the most dangerous airport in the world

26 October 2017 I was a bundle of nerves when I woke at 5am. We had a 6am flight to catch to Lukla, the starting point for our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) and the beginning of perhaps my greatest physical and mental challenge to date. We were hurried through the security point at... Continue Reading →

A stranger looking for friends in Nepal

25 October 2017 Today I went on a tour of Kathmandu city that was organised by my trekking company. It was part of my package and I was looking forward to meeting the other people I’d be hiking with to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Groups were advertised as being between two and 12 people and... Continue Reading →

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