Welcome to Phakding

26 October 2017 – Afternoon I was on my way to Everest Base Camp (EBC) but I was walking downhill. What the? Yep, the entire first day of walking is a gradual descent from 2,860m to 2,625m which makes for a very easy day of walking but a terrible day for the mind. When you... Continue Reading →

Flying into the most dangerous airport in the world

26 October 2017 I was a bundle of nerves when I woke at 5am. We had a 6am flight to catch to Lukla, the starting point for our trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) and the beginning of perhaps my greatest physical and mental challenge to date. We were hurried through the security point at... Continue Reading →

A stranger looking for friends in Nepal

25 October 2017 Today I went on a tour of Kathmandu city that was organised by my trekking company. It was part of my package and I was looking forward to meeting the other people I’d be hiking with to Everest Base Camp (EBC). Groups were advertised as being between two and 12 people and... Continue Reading →

Holiday sex is actually a thing

24 October 2017 - Afternoon The taxi dropped me back to Thamel after I said goodbye to AJ and Bina but I was still to find my hotel. It took me several wrong turns and another half an hour of walking before I saw a sign for my hotel in front of me. I decided... Continue Reading →

An unexpected tour guide in Kathmandu

23 October 2017 - Morning Even more important than knowing where you’re going is acting like you do, or so I had read in an article about solo travel. On my first day in Kathmandu, I spent a stupid amount of time looking out my hotel window, looking for other tourists to see which direction... Continue Reading →

Flying solo on too much sleep

22 October 2017 - Afternoon I’m sitting in a bar in Kuala Lumpur airport, a pint of Japanese beer before me, dripping condensation onto the used cardboard coaster. I think I hear my name being called over the PA system every few minutes. The accented pronunciation of Malaysia sounds very similar. A pleasant trill heralds... Continue Reading →

Mountain of my making: Journey to Everest Base Camp

After the disappointment I experienced climbing Mt Kilimanjaro (see Climbing a mountain to nowhere), I threw myself into baby-making. We’d been trying for coming on two years without telling anyone bar my bestie. Kilimanjaro had been a good distraction for me, scheduling in training hikes and trawling the gear and equipment stores for those must-have... Continue Reading →

Climbing a mountain to nowhere

5 August 2013 Our summit attempt was to begin at 4am from 5,300m. I hardly slept it was so cold. I had thermals on, heat pads, an arctic-rated sleeping bag and still I was cold. And scared. I had wanted this my whole life and I was terrified I was going to fail. Unable to... Continue Reading →

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